Doniphan Street’s newest resident is like nothing El Paso has ever experienced before. Combining Japanese and Korean influences with a touch of fusion and molecular gastronomy, Dragonfly is an affordable upscale restaurant. Friendly staff and owners will guide you through their massive menu of hot and cold appetizers, sushi, sashimi, nigiri, entrees, noodles and desserts. It’s not only for wine lovers; sake and draft beers are also served here.
Starters vary from kimchi edamame and squid salad, to tempura crab cake and spicy tuna tacos. The “new age” section features green tea-cured salmon with yuzu-wasabi cream, seared white tuna with avocado puree, kimchi vinaigrette, shiso and pop rocks and other innovative dishes. Choose from over thirty sushi rolls ranging from standards to chef creations with local names. The Bunny 2nd has shitake tempura and sweet potato, avocado, vegan cheese, spicy mayo and eel sauce rolled in soy paper. If you’re watching carbs, try the Okinawa Cuke which is served without rice. It’s a cucumber-wrapped roll with tuna, salmon, krab, avocado, greens and ponzu sauce.
The washoku section is where you’ll find Japanese and Korean specialty entrees like bulgogi (Korean grilled beef marinated in soy, fruits and sake) and katsu (breaded and fried chicken with sweet miso sauce) served with miso soup, rice and seasonal vegetables. You won’t find ordinary steamed rice here either; white and black rice is cooked in a high pressure cooker. Vegetarians will be in heaven with the variety of options including Teriyaki soy or tofu steak and green spinach ramen.
The creativity doesn’t stop at dessert; try mochi in various flavors, fried ice cream (green tea, plum or red bean) or cheesecake gnosh (ganache?) with powdered nutella, candied bacon and blueberries. Word of mouth is sure to make this inventive newcomer and trendsetter a local favorite.
Additional Veg Snob Notes: All I can say is WOW. This place is amazing, especially for vegans and vegetarians. They don’t have a written vegan sushi menu, but they have noted that they will make whatever vegan roll you want. They have vegan cream cheese, mayo, and soy steak! I gave Chef Ji full reign, and he created the best roll I have ever had as evidenced by the photo. It was very much worth the $9 that I was charged. The tofu steak was also very good, but I didn’t care for the soy steak. The soy steak was a very small portion for the price and kind of reminded me of Boca brand veggie patties with more texture.
Visit them on Facebook to view hours and menus at facebook.com/dragonflysushi
This review was originally published in What’s Up Weekly on June 25, 2014.